This morning I woke early, had a breakfast of fresh bread, cherry jam, and hot tea. Then I went back to the room, pulled a chair onto the porch and read. The sun was heavy, but with the wind and cover of the porch, the weather was cool and refreshing. There were cheers and sounds of excitement coming from behind the guesthouse, where a large group of local teenage boys decided to skip school and play a game of futbol.
As I sat reading, my mind wandered thinking about what is to come. This morning is my last morning in Abetifi, possibly for the rest of my life; it has become my home in Africa, the streets and sounds of the village are familiar, as well as the many friendly faces that have warmly welcomed me into their community, and now I am leaving to build another home.
When I think about what is next to come I cannot help but wonder about the work I will be doing. Glen, my site coordinator was telling me of all the different opportunities I will be able to be a part of through the Evangelical Presbyterian Church, Ghana: there is a store where I will be able to teach women skills of management, there are over ten churches in the area that were just given enough money to be roofed, there is an agricultural site, and also a silk weaving site. In all of these opportunities I will be able to work with my hands and my mind, and my heart as I love the people I am working with.
But as I sit here anticipating the future I am reminded of my purpose: Glen shared that we have been brought to Ghana, not to show the people the right way to do things, or the better way, I am not here to enable. The people of Ghana are strong and smart and capable, they can do the work. Rather, they have invited me to their country to work beside them, to learn about their culture and values, to become a part of their communities, and then to share my experiences with the world.
Friday, September 29, 2006
Tuesday, September 26, 2006
Boabang-Fiema Monkey Sanctuary
Friday morning we woke at 6:30 am, to get a tro-tro to Kumasi. The ride was typical and uneventful: bumpy, a crazy driver, windy, and dusty (and since there is no a.c. you drive the windows down); three hours later we arrived safely. Once in Kumasi we went to a bank to withdraw money and then to lunch at our favorite spot for an American fix, On-the-run, a fast-food/convenience store where we can get delicious pizza, chocolate ice cream, and snickers (chocolate can only be found in the big cities). While we were eating we met an American Methodist missionary couple who were very friendly, they gave us their name and phone number, and offered their home, if we were ever to travel though their village and needed a place to stay. In the past couple of weeks, I have met such caring and friendly people, it has been an awesome reminder of humanity's capacity for goodness.
After lunch we got cab and went to the enormously chaotic bus station to a get tro-tro to Nkoranza, where we would be staying for the night. After finding our way with some help from the cab driver, we purchased a ticked and got on the tro-tro and waited for an hour. In Ghana you sit and wait until your bus is complete full and then you can leave. You sit, in the heat, and wait, all the while girls and women are coming to the windows trying to sell things: food, bags of filtered water, and pretty much anything that can be carried in a bowl or basket on top of the head--including skin lightening cream which was offered to us a lot while we waited. Many of them are very persistant and will beg you to buy from them so you shake your head no and repeat "daabi, daabi medaase" (no, no thank you), and then they laugh because an Obrouni knows Twi.
Finally the tro-tro was full and we were on our way. The ride was typical and after two hours we were on a red clay road, so bumpy and dirty (at the end of the night we were at least two shades darker from all the dirt). While on the clay road we passed through villages with mud and stick houses and thatched roofs--it was a beautiful image of simplicity. Then after a half hour the tro-tro broke down, we all de-boarded, and stood on the side of the road waiting for another tro-tro to come and finish the journey. The replacement finally arrived and an hour and a half later we made it to Nkoranza, then we found a cab and were on our way to the guesthouse: we had an individual house with two bedrooms and bathrooms, a small living room and kitchen, a beautiful view, dinner and breakfast for less then $10.
In the morning we woke, had breakfast at 7, and then walked through the village to the main road to get a taxi to the sanctuary. They claim it is a 20 km drive but it seemed to be more than that, the road was clay, covered in bumps and holes filled with water. Finally we made it!! We paid admission, signed our names in a guestbook, and were taken further into the village where we met a guide. He took us through the village, pointing out the two species of monkey: Colobus and Mono (at some points we were only 6 in. away from them), the 70 species of trees, and 30 species of butterfly. We were finished with the tour in a less then two hours with grand finally fight between two monkey families because one family entered the others territory. There were at least 30 monkeys involved, running jumping, making loud noises, and I was right in the middle of it. It was quite the entertainment.
p.s. After the journey to Nkornza I decided I wanted short hair, so I found a shop in the village, and cut off all of my hair, I have only about an inch left, and once I figure out how to upload pictures, I will attach some.
After lunch we got cab and went to the enormously chaotic bus station to a get tro-tro to Nkoranza, where we would be staying for the night. After finding our way with some help from the cab driver, we purchased a ticked and got on the tro-tro and waited for an hour. In Ghana you sit and wait until your bus is complete full and then you can leave. You sit, in the heat, and wait, all the while girls and women are coming to the windows trying to sell things: food, bags of filtered water, and pretty much anything that can be carried in a bowl or basket on top of the head--including skin lightening cream which was offered to us a lot while we waited. Many of them are very persistant and will beg you to buy from them so you shake your head no and repeat "daabi, daabi medaase" (no, no thank you), and then they laugh because an Obrouni knows Twi.
Finally the tro-tro was full and we were on our way. The ride was typical and after two hours we were on a red clay road, so bumpy and dirty (at the end of the night we were at least two shades darker from all the dirt). While on the clay road we passed through villages with mud and stick houses and thatched roofs--it was a beautiful image of simplicity. Then after a half hour the tro-tro broke down, we all de-boarded, and stood on the side of the road waiting for another tro-tro to come and finish the journey. The replacement finally arrived and an hour and a half later we made it to Nkoranza, then we found a cab and were on our way to the guesthouse: we had an individual house with two bedrooms and bathrooms, a small living room and kitchen, a beautiful view, dinner and breakfast for less then $10.
In the morning we woke, had breakfast at 7, and then walked through the village to the main road to get a taxi to the sanctuary. They claim it is a 20 km drive but it seemed to be more than that, the road was clay, covered in bumps and holes filled with water. Finally we made it!! We paid admission, signed our names in a guestbook, and were taken further into the village where we met a guide. He took us through the village, pointing out the two species of monkey: Colobus and Mono (at some points we were only 6 in. away from them), the 70 species of trees, and 30 species of butterfly. We were finished with the tour in a less then two hours with grand finally fight between two monkey families because one family entered the others territory. There were at least 30 monkeys involved, running jumping, making loud noises, and I was right in the middle of it. It was quite the entertainment.
p.s. After the journey to Nkornza I decided I wanted short hair, so I found a shop in the village, and cut off all of my hair, I have only about an inch left, and once I figure out how to upload pictures, I will attach some.
Keep telling stories
Sing songs as you go, and hold close together. You may at times grow confused and lose your way, continue to call eachother by the names I've given you, to help remember who you are. Touch eachother and keep telling stories.
It occurs to me that I have not said anything specific about the other three volunteers I am sharing this adventure with. Their presence has indeed been a blessing. From day one when we faced our airport dilemma and were forced to become a team, until now, as we have spent every day of the last month together: eating meals, traveling, learning, having fun, sharing stories from our pasts, and talking about the future. We are all very different: we share different pasts and different dreams about the future, we like different food and music, we have different families and studied different things in school -- but despite our differences we compliment eachother and are bound by our love for God and willingness to serve Him. In the past few months I have come to respect these women. It is with them that I have learned how to be here now, appreciate each moment, and find pleasure in this country and its culture. It is through these friendships that I have been able to transition into this new world, as they have comforted, challenged, and strengthened.
Yesterday our site coordinators, Glen and Carol, came up for a visit, and told us that we will be leaving Abetifi on Friday, which is a week earlier than expected. We will go to Accra for a couple of days (I think), then we will head off to our individual placements, and I am very excited to finally get to Ho and my placement.
It occurs to me that I have not said anything specific about the other three volunteers I am sharing this adventure with. Their presence has indeed been a blessing. From day one when we faced our airport dilemma and were forced to become a team, until now, as we have spent every day of the last month together: eating meals, traveling, learning, having fun, sharing stories from our pasts, and talking about the future. We are all very different: we share different pasts and different dreams about the future, we like different food and music, we have different families and studied different things in school -- but despite our differences we compliment eachother and are bound by our love for God and willingness to serve Him. In the past few months I have come to respect these women. It is with them that I have learned how to be here now, appreciate each moment, and find pleasure in this country and its culture. It is through these friendships that I have been able to transition into this new world, as they have comforted, challenged, and strengthened.
Yesterday our site coordinators, Glen and Carol, came up for a visit, and told us that we will be leaving Abetifi on Friday, which is a week earlier than expected. We will go to Accra for a couple of days (I think), then we will head off to our individual placements, and I am very excited to finally get to Ho and my placement.
Thursday, September 14, 2006
Kumasi
This post is the accurate date and time.
Yesterday we took a road trip to the city of Kumasi, the cultural capital of Ghana, it was a two and half hour drive north including many bumpy roads and traffic. While in Kumasi we went to a former Ashanti palace, built by the British, which is now a museum. There we learned about the history and culture of Royalty in Ghana. We also went to a cultural center where local artisan work is sold: wood work, clothes, jewelry, etc.
And finally, we went to the outdoor market. It is a city of one million people; so imagine organized chaos, people everywhere. We had to walk in a line to stay together through the crowds--when I was not looking down to make sure I wouldn't step in mud or trip on a rock, I was looking ahead to make sure I was still following our teacher, and when I was not looking down or ahead I was ducking as to avoid walking into a bowl or basket on a man or woman's head. Now imagine tables and small stands with walls and a roof, lined up along the roads, in between buildings and even over train tracks. There are sections of the market selling different items. There is a food section with all sorts of vegetables, raw beef, raw fish/smoked fish, and giant snails. Then there is a fabric section, rows of fabric stands, the most beautiful fabric you have ever seen, bright colors, unique patterns. And of course there is a modern section, selling electronics, western clothes, hundreds of used shoes, and so much more.
It was so overwhelming to be in the market, we had to move so fast as we walked through to avoid getting in the way. It was such a rush and so exciting to see this way of life, but while I was in the midst of the market it was the first time since I arrived in Ghana that I felt disconnected to where I was and what was taking place. I think it was my first moment of culture shock.
Yesterday we took a road trip to the city of Kumasi, the cultural capital of Ghana, it was a two and half hour drive north including many bumpy roads and traffic. While in Kumasi we went to a former Ashanti palace, built by the British, which is now a museum. There we learned about the history and culture of Royalty in Ghana. We also went to a cultural center where local artisan work is sold: wood work, clothes, jewelry, etc.
And finally, we went to the outdoor market. It is a city of one million people; so imagine organized chaos, people everywhere. We had to walk in a line to stay together through the crowds--when I was not looking down to make sure I wouldn't step in mud or trip on a rock, I was looking ahead to make sure I was still following our teacher, and when I was not looking down or ahead I was ducking as to avoid walking into a bowl or basket on a man or woman's head. Now imagine tables and small stands with walls and a roof, lined up along the roads, in between buildings and even over train tracks. There are sections of the market selling different items. There is a food section with all sorts of vegetables, raw beef, raw fish/smoked fish, and giant snails. Then there is a fabric section, rows of fabric stands, the most beautiful fabric you have ever seen, bright colors, unique patterns. And of course there is a modern section, selling electronics, western clothes, hundreds of used shoes, and so much more.
It was so overwhelming to be in the market, we had to move so fast as we walked through to avoid getting in the way. It was such a rush and so exciting to see this way of life, but while I was in the midst of the market it was the first time since I arrived in Ghana that I felt disconnected to where I was and what was taking place. I think it was my first moment of culture shock.
English please
On Sunday we went to church. I feared the cultural differences would hinder it from being a time of worship and spiritual nourishment, so I must admit I was not really looking forward to going... The service was in Twi, I know only about 40 words in Twi, and my mind was drowning in language. God must have recognized this because three times through the service English was spoken: (1) they were talking about fasting this week, Monday through Friday, (2) in the middle of the sermon the pastor looked in our direction and said, "What I am saying is if you want to serve the kingdom of God to the end, you have to be patient," and (3) when the 4 of us were unsure if it was appropriate to take communion the pastor nodded at us to come to the front and then administered it in English. Over the 2 hour and 45 minute service it was these moments that brought me peace, hope, and nourishment.
A Spectacle
This past Saturday the girls and I decided we were going to venture out and see where we are living, so we walked about two miles to the next village. It was a pleasant walk; we passed people working on farms nestled in hills surrounded by ancient trees and other green vegetation, there are red dirt clay paths that lead to homes or farms, mountains in the distance, and a heavy sun but nice breeze. We were greeted and welcomed by those we passed on the road, many also asked where we were going and why.
Once we arrived in the village we purchased a large bottle of water and a loaf of bread for 10,000 cedis (which is only $1). While taking our break we were greeted by two young men, a refugee from Liberia and a student from Togo, and they offered to show us around the village. During this walk I quickly noticed that my presence was providing entertainment for the locals. I was a spectacle, the four white girls were a spectacle. Children would gather in groups and stare, or run up the street, or follow us, or stand on their porch, and yell: "Obrouni! Obrouni!" (white person). Men and women would watch as we passed and some would ask: "Woho te sen?" (how are you?). The men we were with said the people in this village never see white people unless they are driving through in a car, they never actually walk through... although it was indeed an unusual experience I realized we were making ourselves available to be watched and spoken to, and we were a reflection of any notions they may have about Westerners, so we smiled and waved, and responded in a much Twi we could remember.
Once we arrived in the village we purchased a large bottle of water and a loaf of bread for 10,000 cedis (which is only $1). While taking our break we were greeted by two young men, a refugee from Liberia and a student from Togo, and they offered to show us around the village. During this walk I quickly noticed that my presence was providing entertainment for the locals. I was a spectacle, the four white girls were a spectacle. Children would gather in groups and stare, or run up the street, or follow us, or stand on their porch, and yell: "Obrouni! Obrouni!" (white person). Men and women would watch as we passed and some would ask: "Woho te sen?" (how are you?). The men we were with said the people in this village never see white people unless they are driving through in a car, they never actually walk through... although it was indeed an unusual experience I realized we were making ourselves available to be watched and spoken to, and we were a reflection of any notions they may have about Westerners, so we smiled and waved, and responded in a much Twi we could remember.
Tuesday, September 12, 2006
Maaha
it will indeed be a challege to use the internet as often as i might like. both the internet and electricity are unreliable, but finally today after almost an hour of trying to sign on, in the midst of losing electricity, i am on!!
last wednesday we left accra, and came up north to a training center for some orientation. i was very relieved to leave the city, it is quite busy and congested, and i was ready to see (as the ghanaians say) the ''real'' ghana. although, despite the beauty of the country, the journey up was not too pleasant, as im sure you can imagine the roads are very very bumpy and the drivers are crazy! but we arrived safely!
we started our twi language training today and it is going well, there are times when i have trouble pronouncing the words but it is coming along better than i could have anticipated. the greatest thing about learning twi is the ability it has provided to communicate with the villagers, but even more it has allowed us to show our respect for them and their culture. many of the villagers are eager to tak with us and practice, they initaite and challenge, and are quick to forgive and kindly correct when a mistake has been made. they have been a great witness to graciousness.
things are going perfectly; it is beautiful here, the landscape and the weather are amazing, it is warm but there is a nice breeze, and life is very laidback (it is a nice break from american culture, although it will definitely take some time to get used to).
maaha ( i wish you a good afternoon, in Twi)
love,
nora
last wednesday we left accra, and came up north to a training center for some orientation. i was very relieved to leave the city, it is quite busy and congested, and i was ready to see (as the ghanaians say) the ''real'' ghana. although, despite the beauty of the country, the journey up was not too pleasant, as im sure you can imagine the roads are very very bumpy and the drivers are crazy! but we arrived safely!
we started our twi language training today and it is going well, there are times when i have trouble pronouncing the words but it is coming along better than i could have anticipated. the greatest thing about learning twi is the ability it has provided to communicate with the villagers, but even more it has allowed us to show our respect for them and their culture. many of the villagers are eager to tak with us and practice, they initaite and challenge, and are quick to forgive and kindly correct when a mistake has been made. they have been a great witness to graciousness.
things are going perfectly; it is beautiful here, the landscape and the weather are amazing, it is warm but there is a nice breeze, and life is very laidback (it is a nice break from american culture, although it will definitely take some time to get used to).
maaha ( i wish you a good afternoon, in Twi)
love,
nora
Greetings from Ghana!
and we have arrived!! our visas made it to us by thursday, and the earliest flight all four us could get on was saturday night. then after 20 hours of travel (not including the difference in time), we arrived in accra sunday night. it was dark and pouring rain. we've been told that it's the end of rainy season but this season there has been very little rain, so the locals were all very excited about its arrival.
we have been staying in a guest house, sort of like a small, very simple condo. in the past couple of days we have been able to adventure and see a little bit of this lively city; it has been overwhelming but very exciting. the streets are teeming with people. they are walking (many women with bowls on top of their heads) and selling things in stands (clothes, food, jewelry, cell phone cards). there is also a ton of traffic. the development of the city is interesting; in many places you will see a mansion next to a simple house with no roof. and almost every home, despite its size, is surrounded by a tall wall.
the past two nights we have experienced traditional ghanaian food. it has consisted of rice balls (which are huge condensed balls of rice) or fufu (which is a wet play dough-like substance made of root and plantain) and a meat stew (chicken/goat/lamb) that is poured over the fufu and then the entire thing is eaten with your right hand (no silverware). the meals are okay, and are definitely going to take some getting used to.
tomorrow we are going northwest about three hours, for two weeks of culture orientation. then two of us will go east to ho (where i will be living for the year) for another two weeks of orientation, focusing mainly on language.
overall, the experience has been great. the people are welcoming and friendly, and i look forward to learning more about their culture as i build relationships.
i'll be in touch soon!
love,
nora
we have been staying in a guest house, sort of like a small, very simple condo. in the past couple of days we have been able to adventure and see a little bit of this lively city; it has been overwhelming but very exciting. the streets are teeming with people. they are walking (many women with bowls on top of their heads) and selling things in stands (clothes, food, jewelry, cell phone cards). there is also a ton of traffic. the development of the city is interesting; in many places you will see a mansion next to a simple house with no roof. and almost every home, despite its size, is surrounded by a tall wall.
the past two nights we have experienced traditional ghanaian food. it has consisted of rice balls (which are huge condensed balls of rice) or fufu (which is a wet play dough-like substance made of root and plantain) and a meat stew (chicken/goat/lamb) that is poured over the fufu and then the entire thing is eaten with your right hand (no silverware). the meals are okay, and are definitely going to take some getting used to.
tomorrow we are going northwest about three hours, for two weeks of culture orientation. then two of us will go east to ho (where i will be living for the year) for another two weeks of orientation, focusing mainly on language.
overall, the experience has been great. the people are welcoming and friendly, and i look forward to learning more about their culture as i build relationships.
i'll be in touch soon!
love,
nora
It's about the journey, not the destination
you are probably expecting me to tell you that last night i arrived at the airport, checked in, went through security, boarded the plane, had a layover in london, and arrived safely in beautiful ghana...
but that is not how the story has played out.
we arrived at the airport and with the first of four ghana girls to check in, british airlines quickly made us aware that we would not be boarding the plane (what??). let me fill you in on our plan: we were going to fly to ghana and receive our visas upon arrival at the airport in ghana.
basically, ba wouldn't let us board because they had no proof that we had permission to enter ghana and if they bring someone to the country without permission they are fined $2000 per person. so we stepped out of line and immediately started making phone calls, trying to work something out. once we realized this could not be fixed in a few hours, we headed to a hotel about 9pm.
we have decided that at this point it would be best to obtain our visas first, so today we sent our (emergency) visa requests to the ghanaian embassy in dc, and are hoping to have our visas by the latest friday and possibly even thursday.
so i am still in chicago and although i am so so so ready to be in ghana, it's okay. this has been such a learning experience and the four of us have learned how to work together and be positive, encouraging, and flexible.
hopefully, by the end of this week we will have arrived safely and you will be receiving greetings from ghana!
love,
nora
but that is not how the story has played out.
we arrived at the airport and with the first of four ghana girls to check in, british airlines quickly made us aware that we would not be boarding the plane (what??). let me fill you in on our plan: we were going to fly to ghana and receive our visas upon arrival at the airport in ghana.
basically, ba wouldn't let us board because they had no proof that we had permission to enter ghana and if they bring someone to the country without permission they are fined $2000 per person. so we stepped out of line and immediately started making phone calls, trying to work something out. once we realized this could not be fixed in a few hours, we headed to a hotel about 9pm.
we have decided that at this point it would be best to obtain our visas first, so today we sent our (emergency) visa requests to the ghanaian embassy in dc, and are hoping to have our visas by the latest friday and possibly even thursday.
so i am still in chicago and although i am so so so ready to be in ghana, it's okay. this has been such a learning experience and the four of us have learned how to work together and be positive, encouraging, and flexible.
hopefully, by the end of this week we will have arrived safely and you will be receiving greetings from ghana!
love,
nora
This is it!
In an effort for the blog to contain the whole story from beginning to end I have cut and paste from past emails, so pay no attention to the dates and times of the first few posts.
I'm sitting in a computer lab at the University of Chicago soaking wet from the rain, and of course, putting off packing. The bus comes to pick us up at 4 and then my flight takes off at 8:15 pm with a layover in London.
We have finally finished our week of training and orientation. It was a week of information overload, anxiousness, excitement, and friendship. And, although I woke up every morning counting down the days till arrival and dreaded sitting in rooms for hours upon hours, I must admit, that maybe, I am a little thankful we had this opportunity to be together as a group.
So I sit here, incredibly excited and ready to be there. Just yesterday I was able to visit a Ghanaian worship service, the members welcomed us with warmth, prayed for us, and were so very excited to hear about my journey to their home. It was a wonderful taste of what my future is to hold (even though I did freak out a little when they began worshiping in a tribal language).
Upon arrival (I think) I will be going through 2 weeks of orientation in Accra, Ghana, with the other three volunteers, and then I will move to Ho and have another 2 weeks of orientation (including some language training).
I am unsure of the internet availability, but I hope to be able to write shortly after arrival.
love,
Nora
I'm sitting in a computer lab at the University of Chicago soaking wet from the rain, and of course, putting off packing. The bus comes to pick us up at 4 and then my flight takes off at 8:15 pm with a layover in London.
We have finally finished our week of training and orientation. It was a week of information overload, anxiousness, excitement, and friendship. And, although I woke up every morning counting down the days till arrival and dreaded sitting in rooms for hours upon hours, I must admit, that maybe, I am a little thankful we had this opportunity to be together as a group.
So I sit here, incredibly excited and ready to be there. Just yesterday I was able to visit a Ghanaian worship service, the members welcomed us with warmth, prayed for us, and were so very excited to hear about my journey to their home. It was a wonderful taste of what my future is to hold (even though I did freak out a little when they began worshiping in a tribal language).
Upon arrival (I think) I will be going through 2 weeks of orientation in Accra, Ghana, with the other three volunteers, and then I will move to Ho and have another 2 weeks of orientation (including some language training).
I am unsure of the internet availability, but I hope to be able to write shortly after arrival.
love,
Nora
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